Carretera Austral

Carretera Austral of 1240 km long in Aysén Region, built during the Military Government and unofficially named after him by his supporters.

The Carretera Austral Presidente Augusto Pinochet Ugarte (Sothern Highway in English) is a road constructed to connect rural towns of the Aysén Region in Chilean Patagonia which were previously disconected or depended more on ships to move in between them. It was built between 1976 and 1989, it is 1240 km long, starting in Puerto Montt and ending in Villa O'Higgins. Today the highway is a touristic destination of Chile because of the beauty of the landscape. This huge and important geopolitical megaproject was built by military personnel, many died because of the rough climate. The project was proposed by Pinochet since 1958 in the Chilean Army and his Geopolitics works from 1965, to finnally start its implementation during his Government. Eduardo Frei Montalva's Government considered the project but didn't make it happen.

“Our goal is for these regions to become fully integrated into the nation’s development and for each of you and your families to be able to enjoy the country’s progress and advancements”

~ Augusto Pinochet

President Augusto Pinochet Ugarte cut one tricolor ribbon after another as he inaugurated numerous projects in Palena and Aisén, along the Carretera Austral and in the surrounding area. Inaugurating mainly bridges, paved roads, and hydroelectric plants, President Pinochet’s voice echoed through the forests, valleys, lakes, and towns, leaving in the memory of those who heard and saw him the image of “a true soldier” fighting for his country.

History & characteristics

Given the natural characteristics of Palena and Aisén, the locals themselves expected to continue relying on Argentine roads and the sea route for many decades to come. The ranchers themselves—those who, in rain and snow, crossing rivers and cliffs, herded their cattle through dense forests for miles on end and for days at a time—perhaps never imagined that a road would connect their destinations in just a few hours. Of the 56 km of existing roads in Aisén as of 1975, the Carretera Austral Presidente Pinochet had already inaugurated its main section between Chaitén and Coyhaique in 1982, spanning 420 km.

Six years later, in 1988, the Coyhaique-Cochrane section was inaugurated, covering 337 km. Unfortunately, the political situation Chile faced between 1989 and 1992—marked by a plebiscite that ended the military government and ushered in “the new era of democratic governments” (?)—halted the planned development of the Southern Road Network, which was intended to be completed in 1992 with its final section definitively connecting Villa O’Higgins. The Southern Highway did not reach Villa O’Higgins until September 2000. The vindictive politicking of those who assumed power in the “democratic governments” forced a reduction—not in the budget, but rather in the construction work on the Southern Highway—due mainly to the route’s significance in relation to the figure of Augusto Pinochet Ugarte. The total length of roads planned by the Military Government by 1992 was 1,780 km, completed between Puerto Montt-Ralún (latitude 41°20“) and Villa O’Higgins (latitude 48°28”), with an estimated investment of $200 million, reaching approximately $300 million in actual costs—expenses that represent roughly 17% to 20% of the costs of the Colbún Machicura Hydroelectric Plant and 33% to 35% of the costs of Lines 1 and 2 of the Santiago Metro.

The climate and nature as natural barriers, which require constant maintenance of the route, would not be obstacles to General Pinochet’s “geopolitical vision.” He did not hesitate for a second to decide on the construction of the Carretera Austral, which would bear his name—a name bestowed not of his own volition, as his Marxist executioners continue to claim even after his death on December 10, 2006. The physical incorporation of more than 220,000 km² of territory, the extension of national sovereignty, and economic, social, tourism, and scientific development were the primary concerns of Augusto Pinochet Ugarte, guided by his lifelong passion: “geopolitics.” His interest lay in “connecting the southern regions, accessible only via Chilean territory between Puerto Montt and Punta Arenas.” The development that the Carretera Austral would bring to the areas of the Municipality of Puerto Montt, the Municipality of Cochamó, the Province of Palena, and the XI. Aisén Region of General Carlos Ibáñez del Campo, was viewed with skepticism by many, despite the fact that a 1980 report by the Department of Geology at the University of Chile had already indicated “significant mineralization of silver, copper, and iron in Aisén.” The Department of Physical and Mathematical Sciences at the University of Chile did not offer a positive opinion until 1988, when it demonstrated “its economic profitability in the short, medium, and long term” and that “its social profitability is even greater.”

The stance of political groups opposed to the military government—who were staunch enemies of President Pinochet—was extremely strong and even excessive; in one of the opposition publications of that time, they demonstrated their unrelenting hostility. In a report on the Carretera Austral in Cauce Magazine, No. 9, March 1984, it was stated: “The structural breakdown of Aisén’s productive and developmental base,” the residents of Aisén “will benefit nothing from it” (the southern route), “the maritime route or the Argentine route will continue to be more economical for many years to come,” the route “will not play... the role of a true axis of integration,” Aisén is an “area of limited resources not susceptible to development,” it is “a broken region.” Dirty politics, revenge, and hatred lead to blindness and absolute mediocrity, and ultimately to contradiction. Today we can see on the Chilean government’s website that Region XI of Aisén is promoted as it always should have been: “The Carretera Austral changed the lives of the locals, gave a major boost to regional development, and tourism has flourished around it, constituting one of the foundations of the local economy.” In this monumental undertaking, we must not forget the civilians and military personnel who worked on it: conscripted soldiers, technicians, and military engineers from the Chilean Army, through the Military Labor Corps (CMT); private companies; regional authorities from the Road Administration of the Ministry of Public Works; and laborers, people from the PEM and POJH programs, and even inmates from the Coyhaique prison. We especially honor those who lost their lives during the exploration, planning, and construction of the Southern Highway.

Opinions about the road

Remarks by the Bishop of Aisén, Monsignor Bernardo Cazzaro (appointed as the new Bishop of Puerto Montt), in Puerto Aisén, on March 5, 1988:

{{quoteMr. President, as a Chilean, I must also express my gratitude for all the contributions that you and your government have made to this region. We have seen tangible progress... As a foreign priest, I have lived here for many years and have witnessed so much hardship, isolation, and neglect. We are grateful first to God and then to the instruments He has used to promote progress in the region.}}

Words from the German settler and founder of the Puyuhuapi carpet factory, Mr. Walter Hopperdietzel (Ercilla Magazine, October 11, 1989, p. 28):

“Before, we had to travel by boat to get anywhere... This change has brought enormous development to agriculture. Then came electricity, which allows us to have refrigerators and safely store perishable foods. This has an impact on the well-being and health of the population... And now this (referring to the telephone), which has allowed us to talk with our families in Santiago and Germany... I hadn’t seen any congressmen or senators around here. However, during this time we’ve had President Pinochet visit four times. We know each other now, and when he comes, he greets me by name. I already consider him my friend, and that’s a very nice thing.”

~ {{{2}}}

Puerto Montt–Chaitén

The Austral Highway begins in Puerto Montt and stretches over 1,240 kilometers to Villa O’Higgins near the Southern Ice Field. The first section we’ll cover runs from Puerto Montt to Chaitén (160 km), with a transfer between Hornopirén and Caleta Gonzalo (5 hours, operates only during the summer months). The rest of the year, you can travel directly from Puerto Montt to Chaitén (12 hours) or from Quellón to Chaitén (5.5 hours). This service operates twice a week. There is also an air route with three daily flights between Puerto Montt and Chaitén (35-minute flight). Traveling this section of the route takes one day, though it is best to take two days to include excursions in the Hualaihué district, Comau Fjord, and Caleta Gonzalo. Construction of this section took place between 1976 and 1987, except for the first 10 km, which were completed before 1976. The Military Labor Corps (CMT), the Ministry of Public Works (MOP), and private construction companies played a significant role.

Chaitén–Coyhaique

The challenge posed in 1976, based on the work carried out by the Road Administration to establish a road network on mainland Chiloé and in the Aisén region, set as its goal the physical connection between Chaitén and Coyhaique. Apart from the inherent difficulties involved in road construction—particularly given the isolated location in this part of the country, with its varied topography, narrow U-shaped valleys, dense vegetation, and the presence of forests and undergrowth, as well as the necessity of routing the road through coastal areas, parks, and sectors near the pampa and in rugged terrain— in short, due to the need to develop a mountain road, a demonstration of technical and economic feasibility had to be provided, showing that a network under the conditions described could be built within a specified timeframe. Ultimately, the exploration and reconnaissance work, carried out and led by Hans Steffen at the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, by Augusto Grosse from the 1930s through the 1960s, and by Antonio Horvath between 1976 and 1986, bore its first fruits with the completion of the Chaitén - Coyhaique section; specifically, 272 kilometers of road were built between 1976 and 1981 between Chaitén and Coyhaique, and in parallel, part of the cross-country roads defined for the program were constructed. The construction reflected the efforts of consulting firms, construction companies, the Military Labor Corps, and the Road Administration of the Ministry of Public Works through planners, engineers, designers, inspectors, builders, operators, miners, administrative staff, and workers in general. Thus, in 1982, with the inauguration of the Chaitén–Coyhaique highway, the skepticism that had always surrounded road construction in Central Patagonia, Chile, was largely overcome. The importance of the Chaitén–Coyhaique connection can be summarized, among other things, by: the integration of the area into the national territory; improved and greater access to health, education, and technical assistance services; increased land value; the consolidation of existing productive activities; and the initiation of new productive activities. The towns directly affected were Chaitén, Palena, Futaleufú, La Junta, Puerto Puyuhuapi, Puerto Cisnes, Villa Amengual, and Tapera. Currently, paving work is underway in the northern sector of Coyhaique, between kilometers 66 and 100, with completion expected in March 2001. Additionally, in the Aisén Region, programs and studies are being prepared to continue paving from the area where Lake Pedro Aguirre Cerda is located (km 100) to Puerto Puyuhuapi (km 220), and in the 10th Region, work is underway on a program to pave the approximately 75 km stretch from Chaitén to Villa Santa Lucía; all with the goal of having the Coyhaique–Chaitén section fully paved within the next 12 years.

Ruta Austral: Coyhaique–Cochrane Section

The Coyhaique–Cochrane road is 345 kilometers long. Its construction has been carried out in sections over time. In the 1940s, the Coyhaique–Balmaceda section was built; in the 1950s, the road providing access to Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez and Villa Cerro Castillo was constructed; and subsequently, the Villa Cerro Castillo–Murta–Puerto Tranquilo–El Maitén section was built between 1980 and 1988. The El Maitén–Cochrane section was built in the 1960s. Thus, for a long time, access to Cochrane was via boats on Lake General Carrera, which covered the Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez–Guadal section. Before this mode of transport existed, Cochrane was accessed via Argentine territory (Route 40), entering through the Chacabuco Valley. The information in the preceding paragraph explains why the route is not uniform along its entire length. The sections built were designed to meet the needs and resources available in the province of Aisén at that time. Additionally, it highlights the importance of civil aviation, which for many years was the sole means of transportation serving the region’s various population centers.

Ruta Austral Cochrane - Villa O'Higgins

The Cochrane-Villa O'Higgins road consists of two sections: The first section runs between Cochrane and Puerto Yungay, is 120 kilometers long, and its construction presented significant difficulties in the area known as Vagabundo (100 kilometers south of Cochrane), to the extent that five people lost their lives there. The second section corresponds to the so-called Transversal #7 Puerto Yungay–Villa O’Higgins and currently serves as an extension of the Southern Highway. This section is 100 km long. The importance of constructing this part of the network lies in providing land access to the region’s most remote settlement, Villa O’Higgins. In fact, Villa O’Higgins is the capital of the O’Higgins commune, and from the time the settlers first arrived in the area until the road opened in September 1999, supplies were brought in from Argentina and people were transported by air. Likewise, the limited livestock production was transported by pack animals from Villa O’Higgins to Cochrane, a journey that could easily take up to a month depending on weather conditions. The initial idea for this part of the network was to build a road without a transfer point; however, economic assessments and the potential traffic demand led to the determination that the solution in the first phase would involve a 13-kilometer transfer between Puerto Yungay and Río Bravo; this transfer takes 45 minutes. In the Río Bravo sector, the route begins that addresses the most significant challenge of the next 25 to 30 years: connecting Puerto Yungay with Puerto Natales in the Esperanza Province of Region XII by land; that is, continuing the Southern Road to unite all of Chile. This route has a preliminary length of 953 kilometers and includes 9 crossings ranging in length from 19 to 0.5 kilometers. Currently (1999), studies are underway at a 1:2000 scale using aerial surveying for the Río Bravo–Ventisquero Montt section, with the aim of beginning construction in the year 2000. In the XII Region, construction began on the first kilometers from Puerto Natales toward Fiordo Steines. From Villa O’Higgins, a 5-kilometer road was built providing access to the binational O’Higgins Lake (Lago San Martín in Argentine territory); this is also possible thanks to the suspension bridge over the Mayer River named Augusto Grosse in honor of the distinguished explorer from the Ministry of Public Works; the structure is a 138-meter suspension bridge. There are several vessels on the lake, notably the barge Integración, which provides access to and services for the residents living on the lake and in the southern ice field. An area of great scenic beauty.

Transversal Highway No. 1 – Frontera – Lago Verde – Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda

Transversal Highway No. 1 is one of the most important transversal highways in Region XI and ranks second in importance only to Transversal Highway No. 3, which runs from Frontera to Balmaceda, Coyhaique, and Puerto Aisén, ending at Puerto Chacabuco. It connects the towns of Lago Verde, the capital of the Lago Verde commune, La Junta, and Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda. It is expected that this transversal will eventually become the northern bioceanic corridor of the Aisén Region. Construction of this road has been carried out in stages. Thus, the La Junta–Lago Verde section was built between 1982 and 1992, providing access to Lake Rosselot, Lake El Ensueño, the Figueroa River, and Lago Verde itself, as well as other areas with potential for tourism, logging, and forestry. Lago Verde hopes that on the Argentine side, the road between the border and the village of Las Pampas (19 kilometers), in the Province of Chubut, will be completed to create tourist circuits in areas of great scenic beauty. La Junta, a town that owes its name to the confluence of the Palena and Rosselot rivers, is the one that has shown the greatest relative development over time, and it is expected that, with the 2001 connection, this development will gain further momentum. This should occur to the extent that the connection to the province of Chiloé is made via this cross-country route rather than via the Chaitén route. In the past, residents reached La Junta by air, on horseback, and/or by boat traveling up the Palena River. Currently, a trip from Coyhaique takes about 6 hours under normal conditions, covering a distance of 268 kilometers. The distance from La Junta to Chaitén is approximately 150 kilometers, and given the services Chaitén is offering, residents of La Junta are gradually forming stronger ties with Chaitén rather than with the regional capital, Coyhaique.

Chile Chico–Tranquilo–Exploradores Road

TRANSVERSAL 5 Transversal #5 is expected to become the bi-oceanic corridor for the southern part of the region, connecting with the province of Santa Cruz in Argentina. The road has been built in stages over time, and it is known that the Mechanized Agricultural Service participated in the construction of certain sections in the 1970s. The most complex section was between Fachinal and Mallín Grande, particularly the stretch known as Paso Las Llaves, which is characterized by a route that winds along a steep slope, where rockfalls also occur in certain ravines. The terrain’s characteristics necessitated a highly constrained design, with steep gradients, tight curve radii, and ultimately a design speed in certain sections not exceeding 30 km/h. The scenic beauty and surroundings of the area are captivating. The Puerto Tranquilo–Bahía Exploradores section is currently under construction, with completion expected in March 2001: 30 kilometers remain to be built starting from Lake Bayo. The completion of the Tranquilo–Bahía Exploradores section (75 km) will facilitate access for residents of the Bahía Exploradores area to healthcare, education, communications, and daily transportation to Coyhaique. Furthermore, this road will provide access via the Southern Longitudinal Highway to the San Rafael Glacier, a tourist attraction whose appeal has transcended national borders.

References

• CARRETERA AUSTRAL